Cold and Wet

Have not done much work on boat other than picking up a new VHF Raymarine 55 for around $145 off Ebay. The lack is due only to having other pressing matters to attend, my job mainly. Did go last month to Deltaville and VA Beach to see what I could pick up as to items. Found a few items at a good price in Norfolk. Sad day in DV, given at my past marine found a 50 foot ketch down at the dock. Also watch as family had a new dock put in at their home.

Yorktown, Deltaville looking for items

End of October, went to look for items on the coast. Visited by family a VA Beach and picked up four boat stands they were by their next door neighbor. I will clean up and paint. Also, they are repairing their dock. At some point, may take over the boat and leave there for a few months, but that is down the pike, rather have it closer to home.



Had the Ritchie 200 looked at by repair shop in Norfolk , WT Brownley, http://www.brownley-nautical.com/ the gentleman , "Steve" looked at it and found nothing wrong. Suggested that no to leave on the boat over the winter. It will make the diagfram contract, given it was made in 1985, it was be easier to repair, but why spent the money.



In Deltaville, went to the Marina that we in, Fishing Bay,

Truck comes first

Today the ABS light came on the F350. We took to one of the local folks. Given that the bearings were toast and the ball joint likewise, it was $638.00 to replace. But the good news, the manager turned to rotors on the front for $00.00, saving $85.00. Not much but it helps.

Beats the alternative of buying a new diesel.

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Update to last post

pacermarine.com by the way is the wire company in the prior post that the vendor sales. To be exact the sales department said in e-mail, " The material is Ancor or Pacer Marine (pacermarine.com) and due to the free shipping and only 50ft per color there's no price discount. Thanks, Mike NedianoGenuinedealz.com, LLC 866-970-3325 toll free http://shop.genuinedealz.com/. It appears in comparing to ANCOR http://www.marinco.com/product/primary-wire-10-awg it is similar, but I will to look closer. Do not want to replace just to save a few dollars.

Bulkhead for Blue Sea Distribution Panel

In cutting a template for the bulkhead, I realized that it needed to start thing of wiring. This evening have ran across several site:

1. http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-electrical-system-upgrade.html
This is by John Gardner Seventh Heaven - 1988 Catalina 34#695. He has done an excellent discussion on electrical systems in his boat. http://www.c34.org/projects/projects.html This is a link to projects Mr. Garner group has developed, very impressive.

2. http://www.trojanbattery.com/Products/Marine.aspx
This is a site for Trojan Batteries that I am considering, T - 105 6 volt and using four for a bank. I have not decided on this as of yet due to the price.

3. http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Items/gim-wul10rd-l?sck=8504882&caSKU=gim-wul10rd-l&caTitle=10%20AWG%20Tinned%http://www.trojanbattery.com/Products/Marine.aspx20Marine%20Primary%20Wire%20Red%20-%2050%20FT

This site is for primary AWG " This marine grade, tinned copper primary wire, meets and exceeds the most stringent marine specification - UL Standard 1426 BC-5W2 (105°C Dry 75°C Wet). Our wire is constructed from finely stranded, Type 3 tin plated copper and is covered with a flexible and durable PVC insulation. You'll be pleased with it's ease of installation, clean stripping, and superior performance making this marine grade tinned primary wire your first choice for the demanding environments associated with marine installations. "

At $21.57 for a roll of 50 foot, I have e-mailed to get the manufacture. Though most likely not ANCOR, I will investigate and post the finding. In addition they ship free.
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Image.aspx?URL=http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/12001114/images/5/red_primary_wire.jpg

Pictures of the Items

Compass , Stove,  Circuit panel

Just not had to time to blog

I have been working on the boat, plus my job, plus my wife's business, plus my volunteer work.

I still have not got the title to the young man for the trailer, but Pat has reminded me again.

I have been fortunate to find items that I needed for the boat.

In a small town in North Carolina, I happened upon a lumber yard, that had teak plywood, they wanted to get rid of. For $90.00 bought two sheets of 1/2 inch. No bad.

Also purchased off E-bay Blue Sea breaker panel that was new. It retails for $220 at West Marine, but got it for $77.00. I was able to get a ORIGO single burner alcohol stove for $130.00 and it was new. West Marine's goes for $230.00. Also a Ritchie BN202 Navigator bulkhead compass for $77.00, though used it in go shape.

I found 200 foot of 12 gauge wire at the fairgrounds flea market in Raleigh where my has set up in the Atrium for the last 10 years doing Embroidery (Company is named E-Stitches, Inc) which cost $5.00. I will be able to use it to test circuits since it is not tinned.

Currently, this evening I and looking for five rolls of Primary Wire, Marine Grade Tinned Wire Boat Cable 10 AWG type 3 stranded tinned copper conductors with UL, ABYC and USCG approvals. At this point have a e-mail into a company to see who manufacture their stock,would prefer ANCOR, but if it meets the standards that is find.

Also found a web site http://www.electrician2.com/ that has calculators for marine electrical
usage. I have e-mailed the author to ask for permission to link to this site.

The pictures are of the items plus Pat hoops for her embroidery can be seen, sorry if that is confusing.

Finally purchase a 12 volt power supply, new (which I question,,,gotta to watch eBay, some folks are not upfront) but it was $11.00.

Commonwealth of Va, State of Missouri - Headache

After finishing some business up for Pat, went again to get the title for the trailer. Though we have all we need, it did not go. As I told the folks at DMV, http://www.dmvnow.com/ the boat was titled to my name using the Missouri http://dor.mo.gov/mvdl/ title sign over the the young man from his uncle and aunt, which was not a big deal. You would think that the trailer would not be difficult. Well guess what.

I did not want to, but had to call the young man from which I purchase. By the way he graduated from college and said he ws working for his father. That great, kept it in the family Clayton.

So what we have to do is send the title to him, have him title in Florida http://www.dmvflorida.org/ in his name and sent back to me that it is sold to me. It will cost a few dollars, but will sent him a check when I get back.

We had tried his dad suggestion to get a sworn statement as the boat inherited but of course Virginia can't that.

I asked the Commonwealth why one department had not problem and another were throwing road blocks up. Of course their answer was typical government answer, " it's our policy."

Continuing on Bow

Continue to work on the bow berth. Given that that rails glassed in are uneven, worked most of the day getting shims in place. It is level an I need to grind out some tabs in the very front bow to make it fit. Once done, I will glass in the shims, realign the bolt holes and screw down. (The tube in picture is again for the the anchor well to drain.)

Next is to do another bulkhead, to support the bow's berth on the aft. It is around one inch higher that forward factory cubby for the water. I will plywood across, and cut an access with small door in that cubby.

I am looking to re-configure the sink. There should be room to do, though no head room to speak, but this is a 22 not a Morgan 416.

On my list is a furler. From what I have read, it sound as it the CDI FF2 with Ball Bearing should work. Below is a sailnet entry from 2001 on the subject. Credit is given to the unknown author.

"Before sailnet was sailnet it was JSI. I worked in the hardware department for a number of years and sold Schaeffer,Harken,CDI,Profurl,and Hood furlers.In most cases the application determined which furler was best for the job.I attended the Harken tech school in Pewaukee and have tremendous respect for their company and products. Schaeffer is nearly bulletproof with excellent factory support. Same with Profurl. CDI is a great unit, in my opinion, for smaller boats up to about 33'' headstay. The Harken systems are top of the line and can be assembled over the headstay(removed from the boat) and then reinstalled by sending a man aloft and reattching the headstay complete with furler.Harken''s unit00 did have production problems at first. They tried coextruding PVC and braided stainless but the different coefficients of expansion of the two mat''ls just didn''t work. To Harkens credit they would not release this unit until all the glitches were worked out. CDI''s Flexible furler spawned the Harken unit,Schaeffers Snapfurl,and Hoods Sea flex. These flex units were introduced primarily for trailer sailors so as not to damage rigid foils when transporting their boats. In a nutshell, if you trailer your boat the flex units are the way to go if not you''ll probably get the best performance from a rigid foil system. Hope this helps.Good luck." Waternut...............

I need to further tweak. Placed in bow the foam, in front of the installed bulkhead. When I tore out the prior berths, there was rot and water damage on the very front. This came from the vent above on deck. (I am turning deck vent into opening for chain and rode). So, with the drain, and West the area, I will have a well for that water will drain to the bilge via a 1/14" clear reinforced hose. Used 5/8" marine grade plywood for berths, sealed with Cetrol and four coats of satin varnish. The tweaking comes from that when tied, the two pieces are level. But the rails become to lower. I marked a red line around both berths and being added shims that will be West in. During the work levels spiked again to 300. One reason may be I forgot to get refills for the six pills taken. In a few weeks, will have a birthday, almost 60. No way, I cannot fathom that age. I will say, this piddling with the boat is demanding, given there is not blueprint and all needs to be done by continous thinking.

Not Much Progress

So it has been a year, 12 month, 365 days since trading work for this boat. To date most likely have spent around $1500.00. Though alot, I enjoy the solice.

This is a picture of my son Christopher and a friend sitting on Len's boat in Deltaville in 1999. This is where I want to be with my family. If possible it may happen.

Bought a table saw and a chop saw to use. The router that Pat gave me years ago is basically never been used. Will need a table. Our friend, Shannon in North Carolina is a real artisan and is going to get the post.

The Bow Berth Template

I made a template from the old berth, with some adjustment. It was easier to make one complete piece and then rip it into equal pieces. I use foam board for all my templates, saves money and mistakes are cheap.

By the way, here is the a part of the workshop, again. Please see the number of cans (3) with one on the boat for a total of 4 of West used.

Heavy Weight Solution

Could not do much this weekend, my levels went to 310 due probably to all the sugar and carbs I ate. However, did take a picture of the forward berth I have been working on. The first thing was to West the side rails that the berth rest. Just to make sure there were not screw holes that may take moisture. Since, there was a board, perhaps a fir strip, running from the bow to the back of the forward berth to support the two pieces of the plywood berth, there was no way that could whole two folks sleeping there, much less one. I decided to put a bulkhead in. The top is flush with the rails, so to adjust I added a movable slat that can be cut to fit the exact height of the berths. May not look good, but I have seen this done at boatyard on large vessels. Tabbed in the bulkhead with a gap of around 1/8" for flex in hull. Now to cut the berths.

To follow up a prior photo of the tabernacle and plates that I had fabricated, here is another picture. The holes on the side will be used as the point for blocks for the head sail furler and main.

Motor

Took the motor to a shop near South Hill, VA. It is a 1970, ouch! The gentleman said there were plenty of this model working on small rent shops over the nation and it was a strong motor. He asked how long it had been out of the water, which I have not idea, but guess around six years. Mr. Allen said the for sure the water pump and carb would need replacing, but would call me with an idea. Given a new motor is $1500, I think a few hundred in in line.

Put a thread out on sailnet to get a conversation going on O'Day 22. Nothing yet, what the hay. Just want to get as much info as possible.

Family member text me, they are on the way to Tangier up the bay. I miss the saltwater, especially my 416 (picture), with my son and wife, oh well.

Target date is still 2/09

Time to Make another List -Titling Trailer !

Though I am not to the point of starting another project. I do need to start planning. Once the bow berth, anchor well, sink, stove, floor, and other pieces of interior wood. Then the test on the deck of leaks. *&^ that a list in itself.

I need to find the following, knowing that this list will grow.

1. Plenty of wiring ANCOR 12, black, red, dark blue, brown/yellow, brown, green/yellow. (unless find a good deal on three colors, these would be a start. ) Since I am rewiring the entire boat, need to find out from specs or another person on net, feet needed. I can figure, but why reinvent the wire, (wheel).

2. A DC panel with eight throws and fuses. Prefer with volt meter. Water proof butt connectors, I hope I will not need. Ring terminals, three way connectors, heat shrink connectors.


Started on the trailer title, first go around was no go. Need to come back to this

Question to Sailnet - Moving off trailer

My son decided to take a picture. Perhaps I should get persoanlized tags that say OLDNACL. I don't know whether anyone in this area will understand...but who cares

While I had a moment, I asked some of the veterns SAILNET about taking the boat off the trailer. I don't know whether that will have but I need to have the information should the time occur to do so.

Here are some of the comments thusfar


“Maybe instead just put some timbers atwartships under the stern and jack her up that way. Lower her back down, or not, and then jack up the bow. You can jack on the line of the keel, fore or aft, and then slide a timber under supported by cement blocks.” Sailaway - Sailnet


“Remember to put the cinderblocks so the holes are vertical... they don't support as much weight safely if the holes are horizontal. “ Sailingdog - Sailnet

“Jack up the stern by lowering the trailer tongue as low as it will go. Block the back of the boat up. Then jack up the bow by raising the trailer tongue as high as you need to. If you've got a long enough, strong enough beam, you can block it up under the bow and then pull the trailer out. Alternatively, you block up the bow with a stack of blocks, pull the trailer forward until a trailer cross-beam runs up to the blocks, then build a block stack behind the trailer cross-beam, transfer the load from the front blocks to the back blocks, take down the front blocks, pull the trailer forward again, build up the front block stack again, etc... Reverse the process to get the trailer back under the boat once you've done the work you need to do.

I've done it with a San Juan 21...” Catamount – Senior member Sailnet


Thanks to all the folks for their insight

Bow Bulkhead

Got the bow bulkhead fabricated today and West it. Hope to get it in this weekend, with some progress on berth in bow. Have decide to install, when that come about, two golf cart batteries. They are use to being charged often and should hold up. Will put in the area beneath the step added, with ventilation. Working on the wiring needs in the evening, I have not decided what size, of wire to use, perhaps 12. We will see.

One I have the wood inside done, and glassing the bilge , need to do a pressure test on desk to find the leaks before pulling out backs for deck.

Update

The forward berth is going to be interesting. The glassed in rails on the port and starboard for the wood to rest on are sightly lower than the molded form where the water tank, if that what it was called, lie. I'll West over the rails after leveling the bulkhead forward, so now I will need to do the same to make it level. In front of the bulkhead, I am replacing the foam blocks and behind will have a raised section that foam will go under.

Have decided to strip the bottom like I did the Westerly and 30 foot Morgan. But this time, I am considering using a soy product, that was not available way back. But need to do more research.

Plan to consider taking the boat off the trailer...Will need some advice before proceeding. Again the date to be in the water or at least done is 02/08.

Going Off Shore

Here is Pat before we go off shore in Myrtle Beach. We took a short break.

Father's Day - Sole

Chris and his family took me to lunch while Pat was working in her business. I told my grandson that I would have the boat done by February 2009. This is the only way this will happen. Unless I have a goal it won't happen. The only obstacle would be another presswing project!!!

The truck to pull the boat was new when I bought, has over 200k, but it will last, hopefully

I have decided to cover the sole inside with marine plywood and use the following suggestion from a member of the Sailnet Community. I am going to use west in some voids, though the sole is strong. No need to make my this difficult.

"I did exactly what you are thinking about on a 23 ft. boat that had a nearly rectangular floor area. I used mahogany doorskins that I sealed on both sides with sealer and varnish (resin would have been better) and then used quarter inch white pinstriping tape. I the varnished over the whole thing with about 6 or 7 coats of a traditional type varnish (non urethane), which leveled out the surface and protected the tape. The doorskins were flexible enough to take the contour of the sole easily, and the color required no staining and looked very much like teak. I know this sounds mickey mouse, but it looked good, cost very little, and lasted the seven years I had the boat and looked good to the next owner. After all, when I did this I had all of about $2000 invested in this boat and wasn't about to spend money on real teak and holly, which was too thick to work anyway." Credit to jgeissinger

Hickley

Here is the 57 foot Hickley 1986 in Norfolk

Put off getting the title changed till now. That is done, need also to do the trailer.

To Cut Out or Not To Cut Out, Is That The Question?

Having looked at the options for the sole. After considering whether to cut out the sole given that I plan to install teak and holly or hydrocore marine plywood. This would be a waste of time. The port for the bilge did not give a good view of the condition, so I cut an equal port over the bilge 12" from the existing. Of course my drimel stopping working ( will send back and they will replace) but I found that indeed there is delamiation. But to the degree it is not as bad as it could be. Will need to glass the bilge which makes sense after cleaning out. Should not be a problem.

Also I am attaching a pictures of a few of the areas that I'm working on. I am not a great with a camera. The first is that of the port aft berth. The berth itself was replaced with 5/8 marine plywood with Cetol coat, four coats of varish will come later. The opening will have a door so that I can get back to the stern (tight fit). The center is that of the bulkhead fiting on the port center with 5/8 hydocore marine plywood (looks like teak.) This picture is before four coats of varnish was applied, now is looks like a miror. The last is where glassed in area for stainless plate on top of a new teak compression post. The post will have a base also made of stainless. For now I have a jacked post in that area. More to come when things hopefully continue to come along.

More Info is good info

Found a site of a gentleman that has restored a 22 O'Day. He is must more detail than I am. Made a paper copy to pick up some tips from his work. Interesting that he is own the road in Carboro NC. http://carrboroyachtclub.blogspot.com/

At this point, I will be moving to continue to box beneath the cockpit for the batteries . Currently planning to install two.

Cut a port in the sole in order to work on the bilge. What I found was the same as the gentleman above. Delamination. So that is the next project.

Where I AM At This Point

Have spent the last evening working on getting the port aft berth bulkhead installed. About to run out of teak support but will need to wait until cash flow is better to drop another $200. The bulkhead on the starboard aft is done, the risers for the step is done, which in itself was a two month job. The stay in the hospital did not help. Looking to the sail net community as to advise for the gaps I left between the bulkhead and glass. Did not want to put stress on glass. Thinking of using foam. Waiting for opinions(s).

Found out from one of my friends at boat yard, that most trawler use quite a bit of foam in the can for voids. Just make sure that is not the stuff used on houses, need one like evercoat.

Boat Sick

This was taken in 1998 by a friend that was on his power boat as we traveled together on the Chesapeake coming back from Eastern Shore. I am at the helm and the gentleman on the front was a guest. The Island Gypsy is doing around 8 knots at this point with all sails aloft.

I miss this boat.

To much to do - May 10. 2008

I have not had the time to do much, but some items are done. The starboard and port berths are in with support bulkhead fiberglassed in. Now, I am working on a step that will give me an area for batteries. Have the deck plate fabricated, with holes for block, see picture.

Most likely will not have ready for this season, just to much to do and work has been demanding.

February 10, 2008 - Progress, perhaps

On Saturday, I had planned to start early, but forgot about the training two of my staff were doing, so I decided to just say hi.

Got back home, continued with the starboard assembly for the step. Bolted into the bulkhead that I had made and to the fiberglass rise for the berth. Look fairly good.

Decided to varnish the midship bulkheads completed with clear gloss over the satin. To make sure it was good adhesion, did a small section hid by bulkhead attachment. Look good when dry and proceeded to coat remaining area. I ahave not make my mind as to whether to pull the port install new bulkhead to varnish or just do on board.

By the way the young man that did the following blog did an excellent job in tracking his work.http://www.oday22.com/about

Not as cold - February 3, 2008

The weather has not been to cold to work inside boat as well as basement. Went back to Windor and got 1/4 marine plywood, with a vener. The company is worldpanel.com.

I will have both aft berths and step down in another two weeks. At this speed will not be sailing soon.

Looking for Bolts - January 20, 2008

I did not realize how difficult it is to find a stainless bolt(s). I found some at Burke Hardware in Raliegh yesterday after visiting both Home Depot and Lowes. Neither had what I needed for the bulkheads.

Today I visited with a friend in Eden fleamarket, who also sells bolts. We talked and I added him to google mail.

Today it is 21 degrees here, no snow though. Working in the work area today getting the starboard berth ready to put in. I think I have come to a plan for the batteries, eletrical panel, VHF, compass and battery switch. The remaining question, will it be in the water by spring?

At Wintergreen - January 12 & 13, 2008 (No Boats Here)

Chris in the red jacket

Sue called and said the unit was was open and Chris should go ski at WinterGreen . Though on call for work, another staff offered to watch the weekend for me.

This was the first time in years, since sailing on the Island Gyspy, we have spent this much time together. That was back in 1996. That's to long of a time not to spent time with one's child.

He still does pretty good.