Question to Sailnet - Moving off trailer

My son decided to take a picture. Perhaps I should get persoanlized tags that say OLDNACL. I don't know whether anyone in this area will understand...but who cares

While I had a moment, I asked some of the veterns SAILNET about taking the boat off the trailer. I don't know whether that will have but I need to have the information should the time occur to do so.

Here are some of the comments thusfar


“Maybe instead just put some timbers atwartships under the stern and jack her up that way. Lower her back down, or not, and then jack up the bow. You can jack on the line of the keel, fore or aft, and then slide a timber under supported by cement blocks.” Sailaway - Sailnet


“Remember to put the cinderblocks so the holes are vertical... they don't support as much weight safely if the holes are horizontal. “ Sailingdog - Sailnet

“Jack up the stern by lowering the trailer tongue as low as it will go. Block the back of the boat up. Then jack up the bow by raising the trailer tongue as high as you need to. If you've got a long enough, strong enough beam, you can block it up under the bow and then pull the trailer out. Alternatively, you block up the bow with a stack of blocks, pull the trailer forward until a trailer cross-beam runs up to the blocks, then build a block stack behind the trailer cross-beam, transfer the load from the front blocks to the back blocks, take down the front blocks, pull the trailer forward again, build up the front block stack again, etc... Reverse the process to get the trailer back under the boat once you've done the work you need to do.

I've done it with a San Juan 21...” Catamount – Senior member Sailnet


Thanks to all the folks for their insight

Bow Bulkhead

Got the bow bulkhead fabricated today and West it. Hope to get it in this weekend, with some progress on berth in bow. Have decide to install, when that come about, two golf cart batteries. They are use to being charged often and should hold up. Will put in the area beneath the step added, with ventilation. Working on the wiring needs in the evening, I have not decided what size, of wire to use, perhaps 12. We will see.

One I have the wood inside done, and glassing the bilge , need to do a pressure test on desk to find the leaks before pulling out backs for deck.

Update

The forward berth is going to be interesting. The glassed in rails on the port and starboard for the wood to rest on are sightly lower than the molded form where the water tank, if that what it was called, lie. I'll West over the rails after leveling the bulkhead forward, so now I will need to do the same to make it level. In front of the bulkhead, I am replacing the foam blocks and behind will have a raised section that foam will go under.

Have decided to strip the bottom like I did the Westerly and 30 foot Morgan. But this time, I am considering using a soy product, that was not available way back. But need to do more research.

Plan to consider taking the boat off the trailer...Will need some advice before proceeding. Again the date to be in the water or at least done is 02/08.

Going Off Shore

Here is Pat before we go off shore in Myrtle Beach. We took a short break.

Father's Day - Sole

Chris and his family took me to lunch while Pat was working in her business. I told my grandson that I would have the boat done by February 2009. This is the only way this will happen. Unless I have a goal it won't happen. The only obstacle would be another presswing project!!!

The truck to pull the boat was new when I bought, has over 200k, but it will last, hopefully

I have decided to cover the sole inside with marine plywood and use the following suggestion from a member of the Sailnet Community. I am going to use west in some voids, though the sole is strong. No need to make my this difficult.

"I did exactly what you are thinking about on a 23 ft. boat that had a nearly rectangular floor area. I used mahogany doorskins that I sealed on both sides with sealer and varnish (resin would have been better) and then used quarter inch white pinstriping tape. I the varnished over the whole thing with about 6 or 7 coats of a traditional type varnish (non urethane), which leveled out the surface and protected the tape. The doorskins were flexible enough to take the contour of the sole easily, and the color required no staining and looked very much like teak. I know this sounds mickey mouse, but it looked good, cost very little, and lasted the seven years I had the boat and looked good to the next owner. After all, when I did this I had all of about $2000 invested in this boat and wasn't about to spend money on real teak and holly, which was too thick to work anyway." Credit to jgeissinger

Hickley

Here is the 57 foot Hickley 1986 in Norfolk

Put off getting the title changed till now. That is done, need also to do the trailer.

To Cut Out or Not To Cut Out, Is That The Question?

Having looked at the options for the sole. After considering whether to cut out the sole given that I plan to install teak and holly or hydrocore marine plywood. This would be a waste of time. The port for the bilge did not give a good view of the condition, so I cut an equal port over the bilge 12" from the existing. Of course my drimel stopping working ( will send back and they will replace) but I found that indeed there is delamiation. But to the degree it is not as bad as it could be. Will need to glass the bilge which makes sense after cleaning out. Should not be a problem.

Also I am attaching a pictures of a few of the areas that I'm working on. I am not a great with a camera. The first is that of the port aft berth. The berth itself was replaced with 5/8 marine plywood with Cetol coat, four coats of varish will come later. The opening will have a door so that I can get back to the stern (tight fit). The center is that of the bulkhead fiting on the port center with 5/8 hydocore marine plywood (looks like teak.) This picture is before four coats of varnish was applied, now is looks like a miror. The last is where glassed in area for stainless plate on top of a new teak compression post. The post will have a base also made of stainless. For now I have a jacked post in that area. More to come when things hopefully continue to come along.

More Info is good info

Found a site of a gentleman that has restored a 22 O'Day. He is must more detail than I am. Made a paper copy to pick up some tips from his work. Interesting that he is own the road in Carboro NC. http://carrboroyachtclub.blogspot.com/

At this point, I will be moving to continue to box beneath the cockpit for the batteries . Currently planning to install two.

Cut a port in the sole in order to work on the bilge. What I found was the same as the gentleman above. Delamination. So that is the next project.