Sunday, September 30, 2007

Supplies and removing remaining wood- September 30, 2007

Other events have taken up my time and the project has been secondary. However, I have made some ground on materials that were needed. Picked up basis items at Lowe's', sandpaper, masks, acetone, 0000 steel wool, fine blades for jig saw and bees wax. The later was to be butcher wax recommended by Shannon who works with Pat on the weekends at E-Stitches. The latter was not available so I purchased some bee wax to put on the bottom of the sled of the jig saw. This will keep the wood from being scared.

I called West Marine and ordered items. Interior paint, varnish (satin), West System expoy. Cost was around $170.00. Having registered as a new boat owner at the Virginia Beach WM, received an additional 10% off, plus shipping was $1.05, not bad.

I have taken all the interior wood, save the bulkhead. There I have a post in place ready to remove the existing bulkhead. Pat and I discussed the interior. She suggested that I replace the vinyl with a white somewhat rough feel. She said that when back in Raleigh would look for.

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Wood Panel Visit -September 19, 2007

I visited Wood Panel Products in Windor, NC. over the weekend and met Al and Mike. They were extremely helpful and were able to provide me with the how to. I bought sheets of HydroCore BS1088 Marine Plywood 2440 x 1220mm. They explained that this plywood is for structure, like I need for bulkhead. Their web site is http://www.worldpanel.com/

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

That too much money - September 18, 2007

&&mm, spent money which I was not prepare. I stayed at my family's home in Virginia Beach while attending a conference for work. Thanks Mike and Susan !

In leaving, I decided to stop at West Marine, that was a wrong decision. I bought two gallons of 2000E Barrier Interlux, with a gift card that coverage a percentage plus a new boat discount. I saved $50.00 by doing so.

The question of consignment came up and I found Salty Dog in Norfolk. Got a fiberglass roller and a roll of glass, woven, fairly cheap.

I decided to stop downtown Norfolk at Yukon Lumber to check plywood prices, but could not find. I know it is up off Waterside Dr. then to St. Paul. Anyway, went over to Bluewater in Hampton and spoke about getting some expoy resin, all they had in stock was West. I don't like West. It to expensive. Will wait on that.

Went over to Newport News downtown to my old stomping grounds, for work not play, and went into Waterside Lumber. I had not been there in 20 years.

They had marine plywood at a reasonable price, I bought a few sheets and drove on home. Pat helped me unload.

Tomorrow I am driving down to Windor NC to World Panel to look at some teak veneer.

Cost of the day. $200.00

Friday, September 14, 2007

Something said about too many list - September 14, 2007

I keep thinking of plans for the boat. Now I want to consider how many batteries, do I want shore power, what about solar? Need to focus on one thing at a time. Ok, got it cleaned except for mid-ships, which won't take long. I had planned to next go outside and work on the boat then do pressure water test the deck. Time wise, ain't a factor. There is no haul out or toss in fee, storage is free.

So finish the midships and the scrap the hull below the water line....This is a circle, I have been here before.

Batteries, need to focus on..not now !

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Overload information -September 14, 2007

TOO much information. Here I make a decision on the wood for the bulkhead and bamg ! Here I go again. A boat maker said not to use plywood reasoning that it will never come back to the same. What that means I have no idea. He said to take Mahogany boards. I don't know.....

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Decision MDO vs Marine plywood - September 12, 2007

I am going to have to replace the bulkhead at some point. After taking and writing, listening and reading. I think the best choice is to use marine plywood. I want to cover that with veneer, what I don't know yet. So that decision is made. Moving on. Once I have the entire boat clean, except for areas that was no way to get to (beneath the cockpit where foam is located and the stern below the cockpit that I cannot reach.)

I am stopping inside and go outside to do below the water line. My plan is to do the same as I have with all my prior boats. Sand or scrap down to the gel coat, get it smooth and fiberglass where I need to, I hope there is none. Then seal the bottom with two coats of good expoy, like Interlux.

Next, I will do a pressure test of the deck, sealing all area to allow the pressure to build up inside and water with Joy, slowing watching for bubbles.

This is when the work will start.

Monday, September 10, 2007

Where I was 9 11 2001

7:59 a.m. American Airlines Flight 11 takes off from Boston's Logan Airport and I was up drinking coffee.
8:13 a.m. The last official communication between American Airlines Flight 11 and ground controllers occurs and the transponder stops transmitting. The hijacking occurs at about this point and I was in the shower.
8:43 a.m. United Airlines Flight 175 is hijacked and I was brushing my teeth.
8:46:26 a.m. American Airlines Flight 11 out of Boston, Massachusetts, crashes into the north tower of the World Trade Center with an estimated 10,000 gallons of fuel and traveling 470 mph, I was unaware until the news broke in. I sat in my chair in disbelief.
8:50 a.m. United Airlines Flight 175 begins heading towards New York City.
9:02:54 a.m. United Airlines Flight 175 hits the south tower of the World Trade Center and explodes and I was there in my house in my comfortable chair, watching and horrified.
9:38 a.m. American Airlines Flight 77 crashes into the Pentagon. My God who will be next, I thought.
10:05 a.m. The south tower of the World Trade Center collapses.
10:10 a.m. A portion of the Pentagon collapses.
10:10 a.m. United Airlines Flight 93 crashes in Somerset County, Pennsylvania, southeast of Pittsburgh.
10:28 a.m. The north tower of the World Trade Center collapses from the top down on. I cried for an hour in disbelief.

On 09 11 07, I will go to work at be at my desk at 8:46:26 ----SAFE , God willing.

Remember

Source of free Mahogany ? - September 10, 2007

This morning having coffee at a local store, I got to talking with a gentleman that builds furniture. Told him I needed to buy some mahogany. He said not to buy but come to his shop. He had a pile of mahogany six foot tall in lengthy up to four feet. In asking where he found got it. Said that it come from pallets that his items are shipped on from Indonesia. Further, that most folks are unaware of this. Further, many pallet recyclers done like to use, because it hard to nail. So, I pass this along to those looking. They should talk to folks that 1: ship in large items from Indonesia or 2. Talk to pallet recyclers.

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Removing the Rotten wood - September 8, 2007

The plywood install by the builder was pine and not sealed, so over the years, getting wet and so forth if came down to being useless to repair. In speaking to a supplier for marine and MBO plywood, the cost is prohibitive for the amount that is needed. I will pose a question on sailnet and see if there is any alternative. (Answers varied, to no on your life to OK with expoy. Still need to see what would be the best solution as well as the true cost in long run.)

I have removed the foam blocks from the bow, for now, and cleaned the area. In cleaning, I have now seen all the areas inside that need attention. This is the only way that I know one can really get to know a boat. (Only repair in the front/bow of book is replace the berths). I will be instaling so shelves in the bow and then returning he foam blocks. The boat does not have a head and I would like. Pat want me to just have a portable pot. I guess that will have to do.

May need to replace the bulkheads, the wood at the bottom is rotted out. That will be a chore.

The 41, 30 and Westerly did not have the rotten plywood that this vessel has, so this is a new area for me. It not a problem as to replacing, having kept all the old plywood for templates.

Once the inside is ready to start rebuilding, I am going to pressure test the deck with water and Joy to see what has to be done.
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For future reference for the purpose by writer to have a quick source of information when needed. THESE ARE NOT THE WRITER but are attributed to other sources found on the Web.

Jim Seidel of Interlux doesn’t recommend applying any single-part topside paint directly over newly cured epoxy. Apparently, the amine blush, a common byproduct of cured epoxy, mixes with the driers in the paint and the finish won’t dry. Two-part finishes, like Interthane Plus, are less susceptible to amine blush. Better to allow the epoxy to cure for about a week or longer, then remove the water-soluble blush with soapy water and wet sand with 120-grit paper (always use 3M Freecut paper to prevent paper loading). As for a primer, it’s best to apply a blush-free polyamide epoxy, such as Interlux 404/414, then sand and apply the topside paint. To solve your problem Seidel recommends sanding well with 220-grit paper and wipe down with Interlux 333 thinner. Then try a small test patch, applying Brightside thinned 10% with 333. If it dries, paint the rest. If it doesn’t, sand to remove all the primer, then paint with 404/414 and Interthane Plus. This paint is a better choice for decks as it’s much harder than Brightside, but it cannot be applied over Brightside primer. The prior is attrituded to Interlux Paint.

The best method to attach fasteners where there is no back access and you cannot thru-bolt with a backing plate is to use the hardware bonding method. Bonding fasteners with epoxy resin (e.g. Epiglass, West System) increases the load transfer area to provide the needed holding power. Bonding techniques vary for cored and non-cored decks and for aluminum and stainless hardware. The following instructions are outlined in more detail in the booklet “Fiberglass Boat Repair & Maintenance” (catalog number 002-550), published and sold by Gougeon Brothers (Tel: 517/684-7286). Considering the point loading on a boarding ladder, you must prepare the hull and hardware exactly as outlined to ensure a good bond and prevent damage to the deck. To do this, mask the working area, then solvent wipe. Masking prevents contaminating the work area with wax residue, etc. Drill an oversize hole, twice the diameter of the fastener and to a depth of its length. To increase the holding power, fill the hole one-third full with epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. Let cure. Place the mounting brackets in position and outline the perimeter and fastener holes with a pencil. Drill pilot holes in the cured epoxy for the screws. Tape plastic around the work area to protect from spills. Using 80-grit paper, sand the area within the pencil line. Also sand the contact surface of the mounting brackets to expose fresh metal. Mask the finish surfaces of the brackets for protection from epoxy spills. Solvent wipe all mating surfaces. Mix up a small batch of unthickened epoxy and wet-out the matting surface of the deck, inside the drilled deck holes and screw threads. Wet out the mounting surface of the brackets, then aggressively sand with 80-grit paper. This exposes fresh metal in epoxy, thus eliminating air and the possibility of oxidation. West System also recommends etching the aluminum prior to wetting out (purchase the 860 Aluminum Etch Kit). Thicken epoxy resin with colloidal silica to a peanut-butter consistency. Apply liberally to the deck mounting surface. Fill the fastener holes and, using a toothpick or small stick, stir to remove any air bubbles. Liberally coat the screw threads with thickened epoxy. Place the brackets in position and tighten the fasteners just until epoxy begins to squeeze out the joint. Clean up any epoxy residue. Remove the masking tape. Allow the epoxy to fully cure at least 24 hours before attaching the ladder, and wait three days to a week before applying a load. The pror is attritubed to Interlux Paint Company.

Barrier coatings are designed to prevent blisters but the occurrence of blistering is unpredictable and subject to many variables. Chances are that, if your boat has been in the same geographic area with the same haulout schedule for many years and has suffered no blistering, it is not likely to anytime soon. Take the boat to a fresh water lake in Georgia and leave it in the water for 20 months straight and it might suddenly develop a blister problem. Some of the variables that affect a particular boat's proclivity for blistering include the quality controls on construction and materials at the time the boat was built, such as the length of time the boat has continuously been in the water and water temperature and salinity content. The next time you haul out have a surveyor inspect the hull bottom and check the moisture levels with a moisture meter after the boat has been out of the water for awhile. High relative (relative to the normally dry hull topsides) readings may give early warning of a potential for hydrolysis of the resin and the resulting blisters. In that case, you can dry the boat out and apply a barrier coating before the blisters have a chance to start. A barrier coat applied to a dry hull helps prevent blisters by preventing water migration into the laminate. Like an insurance policy, it's never a bad idea but you might not ever actually need it. The prior is attritubed to Interlux Paint Company.

According to Jim Siedel of Interlux, when a boat is not kept in the water there is no need for antifouling paint. Over time, however, the existing paint will begin to fade and chalk. This is an aesthetic problem only and, while it doesn't harm the hull, it may damage people's clothes if they come in contact with it. Use a paint remover (e.g., Interstrip 299E) to remove the coating. To remove the leftover stain in the gelcoat, blend 299E and 399 at a 50/50 ratio and apply while agitating the surface with a ScotchBrite pad. Next, compound the hull, follow with a glaze (e.g. 3M Finesse-it II) and then wax. These photos from Interlux show the steps involved. In the bottom photo, the boat looks brand new. If you decide to paint but don't wish to do this on a routine basis, Jim recommends using a hard paint, such as Fiberglass Bottomkote or Fiberglass Bottomkote Aqua, both of which retain their color longer than ablative or copolymer paints. The prior is attritubed to Interlux Paint Company.

There are several ways of going about this. While you could grind out an area so you have a 12:1 angle, prepare a patch that duplicates the laminate on your boat and bond the patch in place, there is a simpler method. Having just completed this on a 22' (6.7m) powerboat, it's very workable and the least visible. Use a holesaw to cut a plug from a piece of marine-grade mahogany plywood. The plug will need to be the size of the hole diameter you need to fill. Tape the repair area, and then solvent wipe it and the hole. If you have access to the interior bilge, do the same and sand with 80-grit to rough up the surface. Mix up a batch of epoxy resin, coat the edges of the plug. Glue the plug in place with glue thickened to a peanut-butter consistency. The plug thickness should be slightly less than the hull thickness at the hole. Position the plug so it's slightly recessed on the outside. Using a rotary tool (e.g., Dremel) and a cone-shaped file, grind the outside edge to create a bevel. Solvent wipe and fill the cavity with epoxy resin thickened with a mixture of microballons and cabosil. Level the area flush to the hull using a large squeegee. Wipe, sand flush, and then apply two or three coats of unthickened epoxy resin. As your repair is below the waterline and you'll be applying bottom paint, you don't even need to gelcoat. But if I was, I would sand, and then brush or spray on color-matched gelcoat. Once cured, remove the masking tape. Retape the repair area moving out 2" or more. Solvent wipe, wet sand, and then gelcoat. I usually move the tape out in increments a few times to blend in the repair. To stiffen the repair on the inside, solvent wipe, and then wet the repair area by brushing on unthickened epoxy, and then wet out a piece of 6oz fiberglass cut to size, lay over the area and use a squeegee to remove air bubbles. Once cured, cut your new hole and you're ready to install that new transducer. This is attributed to Jan Mundy.

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

I have been putting off - September 5, 2007






OK, up till now, very little has been accomplished. The boat is stable on the trailer, with jack stands on four corners. I also support the bow and stern, hull center with four step ladders with cross member support, using Styrofoam wedges. I do not like movement while on the boat. This has well steadied when walking below and on deck.


It has been my practice on the last three boats to do one simple task first. Well it is not simply, but I have understood the vessel better. No its not a survey, that would not be feasible for this vessel.


It's cleaning ! I have found that if I before ripping out, except for the obvious, cleaning all the the large and small areas, all the problems will become apparent. From major to minor. Plus, I an vision what I want to do in an area.


So I started with the dirtest, tightest, darkest area of the boat that I can crawl into. Forgot something, before starting cleaning, I wanted make sure there were no four, six, twelve legged surprises. So set off a bug bomb and allow it work over night. I did and avoided some companions. Back to cleaning. So on the starboard aft storage to the port side it was all cleaned and ready to paint. (some of this may have been address at a prior date on the blog, humor me, I am on a roll) This boats stern either was down or water came in to around two foot. So I know that the sole will need to be checked for rotten wood. So, I ripped out the plywood berth seats/cover, whatever, have a clean all areas. The inside so the hull has only one areas I need to fiberglass. It nothing significant, when built, they left a tag dry from resin.


So that is where I am. To help me organize, since my age is significant, I have email a gentleman that purports he has a book that may be able to help. We will see. If so, I will share. Who am I kidding, I am the only one reading this !


Lights out. I think that this was kind of the same thing I wrote last time. Who cares. It my back and acking T%$@. I will get my camera working so that pictures of progress or lack of can be posted


One thingI will have asked assitance is how to work on the bottom where the trailer rails are. Normally at the yard it would not be an issue.


Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Crawling Into Tight Spaces - September 2, 2007

Hold it, who are these two? If that were Chris and I Now we would not have a hard time crawling into tight spaces. He was two and I was, had hair.

On the 9/2, which was my 58th, got into taking on cleaning the port aft. I was again a mess. Something happened, it had filled up with water sometime in the past. Needless to say, I DID NOT KNOW ! But, so far it has this oversight has not revealed any serious problem. This was a two day job. And I am not feeling great. Wish I was the guy in the picture again.

No I don't....

So, both the starboard and port aft are ready to be,,,,what. I don't know, it better to continue ripping out and cleaning in order to check out
all the small places. I going to need to replace some of the plates for deckmounted items, i.e. winches, etc. etc.

Once the cleaning is done, we'll do a pressure test to find leaking on the deck.